The final instalment in my three-part series exploring Madrid’s vibrant Usera neighbourhood
After exploring Usera’s fascinating history and must-see attractions in my previous posts, it’s time to dive into what might be the neighbourhood’s greatest treasure: its incredible food scene. As one of Madrid’s most multicultural districts, Usera offers an unparalleled culinary journey spanning continents—from authentic Chinese cuisine to South American delights and traditional Spanish fare—all at prices that will make your wallet as happy as your stomach!
Bakeries: Sweet Beginnings
Let’s start with the places that fill the air with irresistible aromas each morning:
- Magazin Cofetarie Patiserie: This Romanian bakery at the top of Dolores Barranco serves delicious plaited breads and beautiful cakes. Don’t miss their vegan mushroom pâté and mild mustard—absolute delights for the taste buds.
- San Francisco de Quito: Located at Calle Antonio Salvador, 68, this South American bakery crafts an exceptional tres leches cake and amazing meringues. A must-visit for anyone with a sweet tooth.
- Colette Bakery: Near Almendrales, this modern bakery run by a friendly couple specialises in beautiful bizcochos (sponge cakes) and seasonal treats. They offer a lovely terrace seating area.
Cafés: Perfect Brews
- Pava Cafeteria: An Argentinian café by the river that’s earned a reputation among serious coffee enthusiasts. If you’re tired of Madrid’s ubiquitous torrefacto (coffee roasted with sugar) and crave speciality coffee made from carefully selected beans, this is your haven.
- Chinatown Tea Shops: Throughout Usera’s Chinese quarter, you’ll find numerous charming tea shops offering authentic experiences and unique flavours.
South American Cuisine: Flavours from Across the Atlantic
- Fanáticos del Sabor: This Ecuadorian gem offers incredible value—under €10 for a hearty lunch that will leave you stuffed. Sergio my husband particularly recommends the chaulafán (a delicious fried rice dish popular throughout South America). The welcoming atmosphere and lovely terrace make this a local favorite.
- Pollos Sukao al Carbón: Excellent empanadas and pollo al carbón (charcoal-grilled chicken) served with perfectly crispy fries.
Chinese Cuisine: Usera’s Crown Jewel
The neighborhood sees Chinese restaurants open and close with surprising frequency, but several standouts have established themselves as essential dining experiences:
- Helaotai: This Chinese restaurant on Dolores Barrancó excels at noodle soups and an amazing tripe salad featuring a sweet and citric sauce with cucumbers, noodles, and fresh cilantro. Their dumplings deserve special mention—large, juicy, and with the perfectly crispy bottom that connoisseurs seek.
- Bing huo bar: Located on Calle Antonio Salvador, this restaurant specialises in biang biang noodles—hand-torn flat noodles served in generous portions. Their beef biang biang noodles are particularly outstanding.
- Restaurante Lao Tou: Since receiving a glowing review in El País, this restaurant has seen queues out the door (reservations recommended). Famous for its fish head soup, Laotu excels at everything on its menu. The slightly spicy eggplant (or aubergine, as the British would say) is exceptional.
- Restaurante BAMMBAO: Currently my top recommendation for Chinese cuisine in Usera, Bambao offers a unique Chinese-Japanese fusion. Don’t miss their ebi fry (giant battered prawns on skewers) and lingote de oro (similar to dongpo pork but with the chef’s special touch). The young Chinese owner pays meticulous attention to detail, creating dishes that are as beautiful as they are delicious. Always busy, so reservations are essential—and forget about getting a table during Chinese New Year!
Note: Serious foodies may lament that Sabor Sichuan’s Usera location has closed, but you can still enjoy their phenomenal cooking at their Gran Vía restaurant, albeit at higher central Madrid prices.
Spanish Cuisine: Traditional Tastes
Even in this international food haven, excellent Spanish cuisine abounds:
- Museo del Jamón: A classic, no-frills Spanish eatery where jamon hangs from the ceiling (vegetarians beware). Perfect for traditional Spanish comfort food like fried calamari, morcilla (blood sausage), and eggs with chips. A popular spot for locals, especially those nursing hangovers!
- Taberna Andaluza Sacromonte and Casa Ciri: Run by the same family, these beautifully tiled establishments offer slightly different experiences. Sacramonte, near Usera Metro, is the place for quality wines and creative tapas in a lively, social atmosphere where you’ll likely stand at the bar. Casa City offers a more traditional sit-down dining experience, with a back room where locals gather to play dominoes.
- Bar Manchego: Located near Usera Metro, this barrio institution specialises in tortilla with creative fillings—some of the best in Madrid.
- Feito: A local chain which offers solid Spanish cuisine at reasonable prices (around €13 for a menú del día). While not particularly innovative, they execute traditional dishes with consistent quality and offer good wines and ambience.
Places to Avoid
- Bar Una Grande Libre – “Casa Chen”: Despite its notoriety (even featured in The New York Times), this controversial café is best avoided due to its open celebration of Spain’s fascist past. The establishment, which moved near the Madrid Río shopping centre after its original location closed, proudly displays a blow-up photo of Franco out front, which is regularly splattered with anti-fascist graffiti.
Final Thoughts
Usera stands as one of Madrid’s most exciting culinary destinations, where €10-15 can buy you a feast that would cost €15-20 or more in central Madrid. The district’s diverse population has created a unique food landscape where authentic international cuisines thrive alongside traditional Spanish fare. If you are looking for an affordable culinary adventure off the typical tourist track, this neighbourhood’s restaurants, bakeries, and cafés can’t be beat.
For more hidden gems throughout Madrid, visit TheMakingOfMadrid.com and subscribe to my newsletter for a free copy of “Madrid Beyond the Guidebook.” You can also support my work by purchasing “Quiet Madrid,” a guide to hidden spaces and tranquil places throughout the city.
