Looking to escape the crowds in Madrid’s historic center? Just steps away from Plaza Mayor lies a peaceful neighborhood nestled between two ancient hills, where Madrid’s original streams once flowed. This hidden gem offers tranquil gardens, hushed churches, and authentic local spots that most tourists never discover.
The Secret Valley Between Two Hills
Madrid’s original name, Mayrit, meant “place of abundant waters” due to the many underground springs and streams that once flowed through the city. One of the largest ran between two hills down what is now Calle de Segovia into the Manzanares River. This valley formed a natural division between the old Alcazar fortress (where the Royal Palace stands today) and La Latina district (formerly the morería, home to Madrid’s Muslim population after the Christian conquest).
Today, most visitors cross the valley via the huge viaduct bridge without realizing they’re missing one of Madrid’s most charming and quiet neighborhoods. But with this walking itinerary from my new book Quiet Madrid: Tranquil Spaces in Hidden Places, you’ll discover the peaceful heart of old Madrid that locals cherish – complete with authentic eateries, charming cafés, and tranquil hidden gems.
Midstream Madrid Walking Tour: The Perfect Half-Day Escape
Plaza Mayor to Plaza de Puerta Cerrada
Begin your journey at the iconic Plaza Mayor, but quickly escape the crowds by heading to the far corner and exiting through Arco de Cuchilleros. Descend the steep stairs and go down the hill to the Plaza de Puerta Cerrada, where you can spot Madrid’s motto on a lilac wall: “Fui sobre agua edificada, mis muros de fuego son” (I was built on water, my walls are made of fire) – a perfect introduction to our water-themed walk.
Casa Paco
From here, head toward Calle de Segovia, following the path where one of Madrid’s main streams once flowed. You’ll pass Casa Paco, a century-old institution famous for its traditional Madrid cocido stew and once frequented by Ernest Hemingway. If you’re visiting during lunch hours (typically 1:30-4pm), consider stopping in for their renowned cocido madrileño – a hearty three-course stew featuring broth, chickpeas, vegetables, and various meats. This family-run establishment has been serving this iconic Madrid dish for over 100 years, making it the perfect authentic culinary experience to begin your exploration of historic Madrid.
Biblioteca Ivan de Vargas: literary haven with a secret courtyard
Turn onto Calle de San Justo to escape the busy main street. First, visit the Biblioteca Ivan de Vargas, a modern library with an ancient secret. Downstairs, in a secret courtyard, you’ll discover the well of Saint Isidro, Madrid’s patron saint. Legend has it that Isidro’s son fell into a well, and through his prayers, the water level miraculously rose, carrying the child to safety. This tranquil space offers a moment of reflection away from the urban bustle. As a practical note, the library also offers public restrooms – a rare and welcome amenity in central Madrid! Check out my post for more info on how to find toilets in Madrid.
Basilica de San Miguel: Baroque Beauty
Directly across from the library stands the magnificent Basilica de San Miguel. Don’t miss its distinctive curved façade and impressive double domes – architectural features that set it apart from other Madrid churches. Run by the Catholic organization Opus Dei, this baroque masterpiece features a stunning interior with ornate chapels and beautiful artwork. The church maintains a hushed atmosphere perfect for quiet contemplation before continuing your exploration.
As you continue down Calle de San Justo, look for the coat of arms of the Vargas family on the other side of the library: this was one of medieval Madrid’s most powerful dynasties. The street is also home to some magnificent carved wooden doors, silent witnesses to centuries of history.
Descend into Old Madrid
Follow the cobblestone street as it slopes downward, growing quieter with each step. As you descend, you’ll pass Rollo Ocho, a contemporary restaurant serving creative Spanish cuisine in a beautifully renovated historic space. It’s an excellent option for dinner later in the day – their menu changes seasonally, but always features innovative takes on traditional Spanish ingredients with a focus on quality and presentation.
Continue down to reach Plaza de la Cruz Verde, where you can rest at Café del Monaguillo on its charming terrace. This cozy café occupies a prime spot on this quiet square and makes a perfect place to pause for a coffee or a glass of wine. The outdoor seating allows you to soak in the atmosphere of old Madrid while watching locals go about their day – the essence of Madrid’s relaxed café culture. Cross busy Calle de Segovia to enter La Latina district.
La Latina’s Hidden Garden
Make your way to Plaza de la Paja, which truly feels like the heart of medieval Madrid. At the lowest end of this historic square lies one of Madrid’s best-kept secrets: the walled Garden of the Principe de Anglona. This small paradise features rose trellises and fruit trees, offering a tranquil green oasis that few tourists ever discover.
Medieval Muslim Heritage
From the garden, you can spot the tower of Saint Pedro el Real. Built by mudéjar artisans in the 14th century on the site of the Morería’s old mosque, it’s the second oldest church in Madrid after Iglesia de San Nicolas – a testament to the city’s multicultural heritage. It’s also got a cool legend connected to it that you can read about in this blog.
End at Museo de San Isidro
As you head back uphill toward the busier parts of La Latina, conclude your tour at the Museo de San Isidro on Plaza de San Andres. This free museum features another magical well associated with Saint Isidro and is usually wonderfully quiet, making it the perfect end to your peaceful exploration of Midstream Madrid.
Itinerary: a page from Quiet Madrid
Want to discover more of Madrid’s hidden treasures?
This itinerary is just a taste of what you’ll find in my new guidebook, Quiet Madrid: Tranquil Spaces in Hidden Places. Unlike traditional travel guides that focus on major attractions, this book reveals the serene, overlooked corners of Madrid that most travelers never find.
My book features:
- Six detailed walking itineraries through distinctive neighborhoods, rich with historical context
- Tips for timing your visits to experience Madrid’s attractions at their most peaceful moments
- Hidden gems organized by category:
- Museums and galleries without the crowds
- Tranquil green spaces for reflection
- Peaceful churches and convents
- Libraries and bookshops for quiet browsing
- Calm bars, cafés, and restaurants
- Relaxed shops and cinemas
As an interactive ebook, Quiet Madrid connects you to additional resources through embedded links, including my blog with deeper historical insights about these special places.
