Nestled below the royal palace lies one of the city’s most beautiful and overlooked treasures: the Campo del Moro gardens. One of the destinations in my new book Quiet Madrid: A Guide to the City’s Third Spaces and Hidden Places, these stunning gardens offer both tranquility and a fascinating glimpse into the city’s medieval past.
A Garden Hidden in Plain Sight
Despite being located in the heart of Madrid, the Campo del Moro gardens remain relatively undiscovered by tourists and even some locals. Why? The answer lies in its somewhat mysterious entrances.
Until recently, visitors had to make their way down to the river and then climb back up the steep slope of the gardens. Now, there are three new entrance points:
- Via the new Galería de Colecciones Reales near Madrid’s Cathedral
- From close to Plaza de España
- Near the ancient Muslim wall of Madrid
Yet many visitors still struggle to find their way in, making this manicured paradise one of Madrid’s true quiet corners—even as it sits beneath one of the city’s most visited monuments, the Palacio Real.
A Lush Oasis After the Rain
I visited the gardens just the other day, and they were absolutely magical. After experiencing Madrid’s rainiest March on record, the once-parched landscape has transformed into a riot of color and life. Blue flowers carpet the ground beneath manicured lawns, while daffodils and blossoms add bursts of color throughout.
Queen Isabel II commissioned these gardens in the 19th century, drawing inspiration from British stately homes with their meticulously maintained green spaces. Historic fountains brought from other parts of the city complete the composition, all leading up to a breathtaking view of the palace that towers above.
The Field of the Moor: A Window into Medieval Madrid
The garden’s name—Campo del Moro (Field of the Moor)—offers a fascinating connection to Madrid’s medieval history, a period I explore in depth in my new Voice Map tour, Medieval Madrid.
The name refers to Ali Ben Yusuf, an Almoravid commander who laid siege to Madrid in 1109. Standing in these gardens today gives you a perfect perspective on why Madrid was such a challenging city to conquer. Looking up from the garden to the palace (built on the site of the former Muslim fortress, the Alcázar), you can appreciate the defensive advantage of Madrid’s topography.
The palace sits atop what is essentially a cliff, where once the city’s medieval walls created an imposing barrier. This strategic position allowed Madrid to withstand many a siege back in medieval times.
From Royal Hunting Grounds to Peaceful Haven
When Felipe II established Madrid as the capital of Spain in 1561, he purchased the Campo del Moro along with Casa de Campo across the river to create royal hunting grounds. This gave the king a clear green expanse interrupted only by the Manzanares river that extended from the palace to what is now Madrid’s largest park.
Today, visitors to Campo del Moro can still enjoy that same expansive view across to Casa de Campo, creating the illusion of being in the countryside despite standing in the heart of the city. The gardens are also home to a colony of peacocks, whose distinctive calls enhance the stately atmosphere.
Hidden Historical Connections
Just across the river, visible from the gardens, stands the Casa de Campo—the “country house” that once served as a royal hunting lodge. This historical building is currently undergoing renovation.
Even more intriguing is Joseph Bonaparte’s escape tunnel, also being renovated. When Napoleon’s brother served as king of Spain during the Peninsula War, he had this secret passage built leading from the palace through the gardens to Casa de Campo—a prudent precaution given the strong resistance to French rule that eventually forced his retreat.
Experience It Yourself
Campo del Moro appears in two of my latest projects:
- Quiet Madrid: A Guide to the City’s Third Spaces and Hidden Places – My new ebook offering carefully curated suggestions for finding tranquility in Spain’s capital, complete with historical context and practical tips.
- Medieval Madrid Tour – My upcoming VoiceMap audio tour that explores Madrid’s fascinating medieval origins, including its time as a Muslim fortress town and its eventual conquest by Christian ruler Alfonso VI.
The gardens are free to visit, and generally fairly quiet even on a weekend. Whether you’re an introvert seeking respite from Madrid’s social energy or a history enthusiast curious about the city’s medieval past, Campo del Moro offers a perfect retreat that feels worlds away from the tourist crowds just meters above.
Are you visiting the city and want to find out more? Then why not hire me as a guide. Get in touch to discuss options.
