The Making of Madrid

Your guide to Spain’s capital

Your Madrid Travel Guide

a Blog and Podcast that Shows Another Side of the City

Welcome to your insider’s travel guide to Madrid. The Making of Madrid blog and podcast will help you get under the skin of the city with insider tips, neighbourhood guides and deep historical dives. All content is presented and written by me, Lonely Planet guidebook writer Felicity Hughes. After living in Spain’s capital for more than ten years, I have a wealth of local knowledge and historical expertise at my fingertips, which I’m delighted to share with visitors to the city.

Insider Tips for Visitors to Madrid

First time in the city and don’t know where to start? This info will help you get oriented.

A Wine Lover’s Guide to Drinking in Madrid

Madrid is an excellent place to enjoy wine, not only because of the variety on offer but also because of the unbeatable prices. It’s a subject that came up when I recently interviewed Luke Darracott for my podcast. “Spain and actually, I would say Portugal are probably the best two in the world for price to…

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How to Survive Summer in Madrid

Updated 19 May 2025 You’re coming to Madrid in August for your summer holidays, hombre, are you crazy? – would be the typical response a Madrileño would give you if they heard your travel plans. They know from bitter experience that this delightful city turns into a furnace during summer. Anyone in their right mind ought…

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Best Day Trips from Madrid

While Madrid boasts fantastic art galleries and fabulous museums, if you’re interested in Spain’s Roman and medieval history, a day trip is your best bet. Only a short train or bus ride away, destinations like Segovia, Toledo, and Alcala de Henares never disappoint. Toledo Once the Visigothic capital of Spain, Toledo’s history goes all the way…

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Madrid’s Most Overrated Attractions

What’s Not Worth the Hype (and Where to Go Instead) Madrid is a stunning city brimming with history, art, and culinary delights, but let’s be honest—not every so-called “must-see” spot lives up to the hype. In my recent podcast, which you can listen to by clicking on the audio below, I explain why these overpriced and…

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Neighbourhood Guides

Trying to work out what parts of the city to explore? These posts will guide you through Madrid’s neighbourhoods.

A breathtaking aerial view of Madrid's vibrant cityscape under a clear blue sky.

Where to Stay in Madrid: A Local’s Guide to the Best Neighborhoods

Originally published 8 December 2025 As a tour guide and Lonely Planet guidebook writer, I’ve been pounding Madrid’s streets for more than a decade, exploring not only its busy grand boulevards but also its charming quieter corners. So I’m a good person to ask about accommodation options if you’re a first timer with only a few…

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Book launch: A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District

I’m delighted to announce that A Guide to Madrid’s Literary District will be officially launched in Secret Kindoms bookshop on April 20, 2024! Illustrated by Nathan Brenville and published by Secret Kingdoms, the book is a glossy bilingual guide to Barrio de las Letras. In honour of Cervantes, the launch of A Guide to Madrid’s Literary…

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Street scene in Malasana Madrid

Guide to Malasaña: Madrid’s Alternative Neighbourhood

Away from the tourist traps of Sol, lies Malasaña, a graffiti-spattered yet elegant neighbourhood filled with achingly cool boutique shops and hidden treasures. Once seedy and even a little dangerous, it’s been transformed for better and worse in the past few years by gentrification, making it a safer, yet increasingly chichi destination. While its heart is…

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Pontejos: stitching together Madrid’s past and present

In the heart of Madrid, where narrow streets tell tales of centuries past, lies an area that weaves together the story of Madrid’s 16th-century guilds, a visionary mayor, and one of the city’s most beloved literary characters. Welcome to Pontejos, a district that captures the essence of Madrid’s rich historical tapestry. https://open.spotify.com/episode/6k8IJQCvYuxpwIDj0x2lrN?si=FW7Gwe4MQJy1t1p2cbV3cg The Street of the…

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Hidden Gems

My guide to Madrid, away from the crowds. For more on the city’s tranquil side, check out my book Quiet Madrid.

Madrid’s Hidden Gem: Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales

The big news at The Making of Madrid is that there’s a new podcast in the works. When the project was conceived, the very first person I wanted to interview was historian Caroline Fish – not only because she was about to leave for the States but also because she’s such an engaging speaker. A Fulbright…

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Madrid’s Most Underrated Attractions

Madrid is full of world-famous attractions, but if you only stick to the big hitters, you’ll miss out on some of the city’s most fascinating spots. For every overcrowded tourist trap, there’s a dusty but delightful museum waiting to be discovered. It’s a topic I tackle in my latest podcast, which you can listen to by…

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Hidden Corners of Retiro: The Artificial Mountain

A romantic folly I’ve spent a lot of time exploring hidden corners of Retiro recently while making my new audio tour for Voicemap. However, as Retiro’s Montaña Artificial (artificial mountain) lay well off my route, I hadn’t had time to visit since was reopened this summer. Still, I’m glad I waited. With the autumnal leaves in…

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Hidden Gems: the Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida

Goya’s Hermitage: an ode to the majo Tucked away beneath the palace by the Manzanares River, the Hermitage of San Antonio de la Florida stands as a testament to Francisco de Goya’s artistic genius – a place where 18th-century Madrid comes to life and where the artist himself finds his final rest. Goya’s frescoes transform the…

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Popular Madrid History Posts

A history buff’s guide to the forces that have shaped Spain’s capital.

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree

Why a bear and strawberry tree? Visitors seeking an Instagrammable picture of themselves in Madrid often head to the statue of the bear and strawberry tree in Sol. It’s an iconic symbol that appears all over the city from manhole covers to public bins, to the logo of the much-maligned Atlético de Madrid – Madrid’s other…

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A History of Chocolate and Churros

Updated 10/2/2026 A crunchy deep-fried churro dipped in a gloopy cup of chocolate is one of the most decadent and divine culinary pairings in history. It’s a calorific breakfast that can be enjoyed in churrerías throughout Madrid setting any tourist up for the busy day sightseeing. Surprising then that while both churros and chocolate have a…

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The Habsburg Jaw Explained: The Price of 200 Years of Royal Inbreeding

What is the Habsburg jaw? The Habsburg jaw is a severe facial deformity characterized by a protruding lower jaw (mandibular prognathism) and receding upper jaw (maxillary deficiency) that plagued Europe’s most powerful royal dynasty for generations. This distinctive feature, visible in portraits spanning two centuries, resulted from inbreeding practices designed to keep power within the Habsburg…

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The Burial of the Sardine

Updated 10/2/2026 On Ash Wednesday, while much of the Catholic world begins its solemn observation of Lent, the streets alongside Madrid’s Manzanares River erupt in a boisterous bacchanal. The Burial of the Sardine (Entierro de la Sardina) stands as one of the city’s most enigmatic festivals, where religious tradition meets carnival spirit in a uniquely Madrileño…

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Watch or Listen to the Podcast

Prefer to listen to content? Then check out The Making of Madrid podcast.

Recent blog posts

Audio Tour of Retiro

I’m delighted to announce that after months of hard work, my audio tour produced in collaboration with Voicemap has been launched. If you’re interested in finding out more here’s my sales pitch: Visiting Madrid and want to find out more about the history of its most famous park? Why not buy my audio tour of Retiro?…

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Street scene in Malasana Madrid

Guide to Malasaña: Madrid’s Alternative Neighbourhood

Away from the tourist traps of Sol, lies Malasaña, a graffiti-spattered yet elegant neighbourhood filled with achingly cool boutique shops and hidden treasures. Once seedy and even a little dangerous, it’s been transformed for better and worse in the past few years by gentrification, making it a safer, yet increasingly chichi destination. While its heart is…

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Your Complete 3-Day Madrid Itinerary

Visiting Madrid for the first time? Then this is the post for you! In it, I’ll present a three-day itinerary that’ll give you a flavour of the city and hopefully leave you coming back for more! As everyone is different, it has lots of options for you to adapt it to your needs. On day one,…

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A Guide to El Rastro: Madrid’s Legendary Flea Market

Tumbling down the hill in downtown Madrid, El Rastro flea market is chaotic, historic, and endlessly entertaining. So if you’re planning a trip to Madrid, I’d put it right up there alongside the Prado as one of those experiences you absolutely can’t miss (for more on getting the most out of a short trip, check out…

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Journalism by Felicity Hughes

Felicity Hughes has written about Madrid for major publications, including Lonely Planet, the Guardian, the Financial Times and Time Out. Here are a few examples of her work:

Tours

Felicity Hughes can be hired as a guide to the city. Check the guided tours page to see if she’s available. Or consider getting one of her Voicemap audio guides.

Tour Reviews

QUESTIONS?

Want to hear more about my tours? Get in touch to find out more.

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