For the latest episode of my podcast, I invited Heather Evans to come in for a chat about the best places to shop for souvenirs in Madrid. A Madrid-based guide and founder of “Madrid, by Hand“, Heather is the perfect person to tackle this topic as she runs private tours that connect travellers with the people, makers, and places shaping contemporary Madrid. After 18 years of living, exploring, and making friends in the city, she has developed deep connections across Spain’s craft, fashion, and design worlds; even better, she loves introducing her guests to the talented people doing extraordinary things in Madrid.
From leather to antiques to wine, we covered a lot of ground in the interview; Heather knows all the best emporiums, so if you have a moment, sit down and listen, or if not, read on for a few highlights.
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Madrid is a great place to shop for ceramics and Heather recommended shops like La Oficial near Alonso Martinez and Cántaro by Plaza de España, which curate ceramics from across Spain. She also highlighted quirky producers like Andres Gallardo, who produces ceramic jewelry in the shape of animals that make great gifts from the city. If you’re looking for something more traditional and local, check the underside of cups and vases for the Talavera de la Reina mark; this means the pieces come from the nearby town that is renowned for its ceramics. Heather also emphasises that it’s the little imperfections that mark out a handmade piece, giving it character.
Antiques
Sadly, traditional ceramic production is in decline so you may need to buy antiques and where better to check than the Rastro, which is a goldmine for those who like to hunt for treasures. It’s held every Sunday along Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores and is packed with everything from vintage clothes to ceramics and tchotchkes. But if you want to avoid the crowds and keep a hold of your wallet (pickpockets work the crowds on market day), Heather suggests going mid-week and hitting the Ribera de Curtidores’ two major antique galleries: Nuevas Galerías and Galerías Piquer. Open all week, these two institutions are chock full of eclectic objects that you won’t find anywhere else.
Leather
For leather lovers, Madrid has a long and proud tradition of craftsmanship. You can find everything from handbags to belts in specialist shops scattered around the city. Look out for Taller Puntera near the Plaza Mayor where you can find leather goods being made in-store. Fashionable “it girls” should check out Malababa for soft leather purses, bags, belts, and shoes in the most unique colors and shapes. They are perfect to elevate a casual outfit or take to an elegant event. At the higher end uptown in Salamanca is Loewe, which is particularly notable for its high-quality leather goods. According to Heather, Casa Loewe on Calle Serrano isn’t just a place to shop – it’s an art-filled space that celebrates the city’s dedication to craftsmanship through the Loewe Foundation.
Food & Wine
When it comes to food souvenirs, Heather has some gems up her sleeve. If you want a sweet specifically local to Madrid, La Pajarita is a must-visit. The historic candy shop sells the iconic flower-shaped violet candies known as violetas. For those who love olive oil, La Comunal near Alonso Martinez is a good spot to buy small bottles.
Wine lovers should head to places like Madrid & Darracott or Pinkleton & Wine in Mercado San Miguel. These shops stock a range of local and regional wines. If you’re really into it, Luke Darracott – a well-known expert on Madrid’s wine scene – has a podcast that dives deep into the city’s growing wine culture. He’s also appeared on the Making of Madrid podcast talking about Madrid wines.
Espadrilles and everything else
Espadrilles or alpargatas as they’re known in Spain are best bought at Casa Hernanz, where the queue is out the door from opening onwards. It’s located in an area that’s long known for selling esparto grass woven goods, which are used in southern Spain to make baskets and sunshades that filter light. Calzados Lobo is another iconic spot, and around the corner from Casa Hernanz – tip: arrive when they FIRST open and you should avoid the lines. Also look out for Javier Sanchez Medina, an artisan who makes handmade woven hunting trophies from recycled materials.
Religious items like rosaries are also popular souvenirs, especially after big events like the Pope’s visit. In the Pontejos area near the Plaza Mayor, you’ll find shops selling these items, often made from jet (azabache), fossilized wood from the Jurassic Period, found on the coast in Asturias but made popular in Galicia because the pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago carved religious symbols into it, or made rosary beads from it!
Some Final Advice
Shopping in Madrid can be an adventure. Many of the city’s shops are small, family-run businesses with flexible hours, so it’s a good idea to check opening times in advance. English is spoken in tourist areas, but fluency varies, so a few words of Spanish can go a long way. And if you’re out of time and need to do everything quickly in one stop, head to Cocol, Real Fabrica Española or Eturel, all emporiums full of well-curated items that won’t disappoint.
Whether you’re looking for a leather bag, a jar of olive oil or just a little something to remember your trip by, Madrid has plenty of advice to offer in the podcast. And if you’re after more guidance, Heather’s got even more tips and stories waiting for you on her Instagram or her Substack, Madrid by Hand.
