If you’ve ever wondered how Ernest Hemingway’s love affair with Spain shaped his writing, you’ll want to tune into my latest podcast interview. Stephen Phelan is a journalist who also leads a Hemingway-themed tour in Madrid that offers a vivid, no-nonsense take on the writer’s time here. Whether you’re a literature buff, a history geek, or just curious about the places that inspired one of the 20th century’s most iconic authors, this conversation is full of useful insights.
Hemingway’s First Steps in Spain
Hemingway’s first brush with Spain wasn’t exactly a carefree jaunt. At 18, he was en route to work as an ambulance driver for the Red Cross in World War I, stopping briefly in Galicia before heading to Italy. But it was his later visits – particularly in the 1920s – that cemented his obsession with the country. He fell for its landscapes, its bullfighting culture, and the “great old stuff” of the Iberian Peninsula, as he called it. By the time he was writing The Sun Also Rises, he was well known in Pamplona, where he loved to chase bulls and drink in local tabernas.
Madrid Under Siege: Hemingway’s War Reporting
The darker chapters of Hemingway’s time in Spain came during the Civil War, when Madrid was a city under siege, and Hemingway found himself embedded in the chaos covering the conflict for The North American Alliance syndicate. During this time, he stayed at the Hotel Florida (now long gone), scribbling dispatches between air raids and sending them off from the Telefonica building, the tallest skyscraper in Europe at the time, which had become a communications hub and a target for fascist bombers. In the interview, Stephen recounts the writer would have to run the gauntlet between the building and Chicote’s bar (now Museo de Chicote), dodging shelling down Gran Via.
A Tour That’s More Than a Pub Crawl
Stephen’s Hemingway tour isn’t just about drinking in the same bars the writer did – it’s about Madrid’s struggle under fire, which means that along the way, you’ll hear stories of resistance, survival and the human cost of war. If you’re interested in the Siege of Madrid or the Civil War’s impact on everyday life, Stephen points you toward lesser-known spots like the Circulo de Bellas Artes, where interrogations took place.
Why Book the Tour?
Stephen’s tour is a blend of history, storytelling, and a bit of cheeky humor. He’s not afraid to call out Hemingway’s flaws – his machismo, his alcoholism, or his tendency to romanticize chaos. But he also celebrates the writer’s genius, from his terse prose to his fascination with Spain. And if you’re curious about how Hemingway’s Spanish was… well, let’s just say it had its quirks. He translated “usted” as “thou” and got creative with swear words in a way which Stephen finds both absurd and oddly endearing. Of course, you’ll have to listen to the interview for the full details!
How to Book
Stephen now offers his Hemingway tour through Fernwire. The app is user-friendly, and the calendar makes it easy to find a date that suits you.
From the author
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