The Making of Madrid

Your guide to Spain’s capital

See another side of Madrid with Lonely Planet guidebook writer Felicity Hughes.

.Journalist Felicity Hughes has been living in Spain’s capital for more than ten years. With a wealth of knowledge at her fingertips, she runs unique historical walking tours of Madrid that show another side to the city.

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Where to find a bathroom in Madrid

Updated 19 May 2025 Navigating Madrid’s public restrooms can be a challenging adventure for tourists and locals alike. From historic streets to modern museums, finding a clean and accessible bathroom requires insider knowledge and a bit of strategic planning. Public bathrooms: the awful reality Finding a public bathroom in Madrid can feel like a quixotic quest….

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Madrid off the Beaten Track

Updated 19 May 2025 On a visit to Madrid, it’s really easy to fall into the well-trodden paths. While the Royal Palace, the Prado and Retiro are all excellent places to visit, shuffling along with the crowds of tourists, you can feel as if you’re being force-fed a cookie-cutter experience that lacks any authentic flavor. But…

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Three Museums that Reveal Madrid Through the Ages

From when mammoths stalked the Manzanares River to when Napoleon stomped through the city’s gates, these three museums reveal Madrid through the ages. And the good news is, they’re all completely free! The Museum of San Isidro: The Origins of Madrid The first of my three museums that reveal Madrid through the ages is  The Museum…

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Three Myths About the Spanish Inquisition

Challenging the Myths of the Spanish Inquisition Founded in 1478 to root out false Jewish converts to Christianity, the Spanish Inquisition was a bloodthirsty organization that killed between 5,000 and 10,000 people during its 350-year existence. Given these horrifying statistics, it might seem odd to say that the Spanish Inquisition wasn’t quite as bad as it…

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Uncovering Madrid’s Buried Medieval History

Madrid holds a distinction that may surprise many visitors wandering through its grand boulevards and royal palaces: it’s the only European capital city founded by a Muslim ruler. Yet this fundamental fact about Spain’s capital often remains largely hidden from public view, buried not just in time but quite literally underground in car parks and behind…

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Madrid Then vs Now

When David Price first arrived in Madrid in the 1990s, he stepped into a city that bore little resemblance to the polished capital we know today. As the owner of The Secret Kingdoms bookshop in the heart of Madrid’s literary district, David has witnessed three decades of extraordinary change that transformed Spain’s capital from a “scruffy…

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Is Madrid Still Worth Visiting in 2025?

The queue to the Prado usually snakes all the way around the building With 11 million visitors in 2024, Madrid finds itself grappling with the same overtourism challenges plaguing destinations worldwide. Rising accommodation costs, endless queues, and increasing local resentment have travellers questioning whether Spain’s capital is still worth the trip. As someone who works as…

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Hidden Gems: Campo del Moro

Nestled below the royal palace lies one of the city’s most beautiful and overlooked treasures: the Campo del Moro gardens. One of the destinations in my new book Quiet Madrid: A Guide to the City’s Third Spaces and Hidden Places, these stunning gardens offer both tranquility and a fascinating glimpse into the city’s medieval past. A…

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