Madrid’s Literary District: An Audio Tour of Barrio de las Letras Tour

On this walking tour through Barrio de las Letras (known as the Literary Quarter), you’ll find out how writers shaped the city, from the Golden Age (Siglo de Oro) up to the present day.

Plaza de Santa Ana where the tour begins

Starting in front of Teatro Español on Plaza de Santa Ana, you’ll stroll through the district’s quaint streets to see where a world-weary Cervantes settled to pen Don Quijote, just down the road from his greatest frenemy, Lope de Vega. I’ll also show you where, centuries later, during the Spanish Civil War, Hemingway whet his whistle in bars like La Venencia and Ceveceria Alemana.

Golden quotes on Calle Huertas

Along the way, you’ll discover interesting shops like Miguel Miranda bookstore and Brown Bear Bakery, and historical bars like Viva Madrid and Casa Alberto. I’ll show you the ancient convent, Convento de las Trinitarias Descalzas de San Ildefonso, where Cervantes’ bones are interred. You’ll also see a statue of Spain’s greatest writer, Miguel de Cervantes, standing proudly in Plaza de las Cortes where you can learn all about Spain’s rocky road to democracy.

The tour ends at El Angel del Jardin, a picturesque garden and florist that’s haunted by the lively spirits of the neighbourhood’s long-dead writers.

Along the way, you’ll:

• Visit Lope de Vega’s House Museum, the playwright’s charming 16th-century house and garden
• Learn about the bitter rivalries raging between Madrid’s talented writers
• Pass by the historic literary institution, Ateneo de Madrid
• Drop by some of Hemingway’s favourite drinking holes
• Witness the Siege of Madrid through the eyes of writers like Laurie Lee
• See the statue of Frederico Garcia Lorca, Spain’s greatest poet

Lope de Vega’s house

Join me on this leisurely 60-minute walk through Barrio de las Letras, Madrid’s literary district, and find out how the area, the city and the country were shaped by some of the world’s greatest writers.

FAQ

How do I get the tour?

Download the Voicemap app from Google Play for Android or App Store for iPhone. Once you’ve set up your account, you can purchase the tour of Barrio de las Letras and download it to your phone.

How does the tour work?

When you arrive at the Teatro Español in Plaza de Santa Ana, the tour will start automatically. The app uses your GPS to trigger audio, and I’ll guide you to the next stop. If you wander off the route, it’ll even tell you, and you can look at a map on your phone to find the way again.

What’s the route like?

It’s a circular route that snakes around the neighbourhood of Huertas (aka Barrio de las Letras). While it’s a hilly route, it’s only a couple of kilometres, so not too taxing. You begin outside the Teatro Español in Plaza de Santa Ana and finish at a nearby florist at number 2 Calle de las Huertas. Both are close to Metro Anton Martin, and a slightly longer walk away from Puerta del Sol Metro. Depending on your walking speed, it should take you around one hour to complete.

Can I take a break?

Absolutely! You can pause the tour at any point to grab a coffee or check out a shop. Be warned that toilets tend to be few and far between in Madrid, so it’s often advisable to ask to use the facilities in a cafe or hotel. I’ve got a whole post on where to find toilets in Madrid, if you need more info.

What can I expect from the tour?

This tour tells you about the city’s history from a literary perspective, starting with the days of the Siglo de Oro when Cervantes wandered these very streets running up to the present day. Highlights include a secret garden out the back of the 17th-century writer Lope de Vega’s house, a fresco inside a historic liquor store and many of Hemingway’s old hangouts.

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